A Surfing Life
“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” —Sports IllustratedBarbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing ...
Aug 28, 2019If you read books, read William Finnegan's Barbarian Days. It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after. – source
Nov 19, 2020This video made me think of a book I love called Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. I Listened to it on Audible. Wasn’t sure I’d like it. Once I started listening, I was enthralled. No politics, just great storytelling, adventure, and beautiful prose – source