A Surfing Life
“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” —Sports IllustratedBarbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing ...
2022-08-09T10:33:03.000ZThe perfect summer read – Barbarian Days by William Finnegan. What’s your favourite holiday book? @literati – source
2019-08-28T02:42:35.000ZIf you read books, read William Finnegan's Barbarian Days. It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after. – source
2023-01-08T13:02:02.000ZI first came across the Surfer Mentality in a short video from my friend @GuillaumeMbh last year, but began to think more about it after re-reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. It is a wonderful, meditative book. Highly recommend audiobook as well. – source
2020-11-19T01:46:30.000ZThis video made me think of a book I love called Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. I Listened to it on Audible. Wasn’t sure I’d like it. Once I started listening, I was enthralled. No politics, just great storytelling, adventure, and beautiful prose – source